The begining of a dream

[merv]

I would suggest a fan with built in shroud. Are  you intending on putting the rad in front of or behind the front down tubes, or somewhere else ? Putting the fan behind the rad (pulling) will mean that road debris such as small stones will not get stuck between the fan and the rad and cause damage.

I was thinking of hanging the rad out in front manky style, as for the fan would something like this be suitable


http://stores.ebay.co.uk/BB-classics/Electric-Cooling-Fans-/_i.html?_fsub=4566833014&_sid=300023934&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

[Olds]

Yep one of those should be fine. I have an 8" slimline one on mine and it seems okay

[the coppersmith]

Putting on my kit car builders head a mo', we have great debates about pushing or pulling air through rads. It seems the most tried and trusted method is to pull the air through, so the fan is behind the rad. Ensure that the air is forced into the rad and not escaping around the edges, so a shroud or duct is needed. Now saying all that, my sports kit car pushes air through with a fan as big as the rad, think 12", works fine, and has been held up in some horrid traffic jams this year. My engine runs pretty hot anyway, stat opens 92, closes 88. The fan has a adjustable thermostat with the probe fitted in the top pipe hose, many today think the bottom hose is better, but this works for me, Car Builders Solution has a good web site with many fans and thermostats etc. worth a look.

[merv]

OUCH
I have two broken head studs any ideas

[terry t]

OUCH
I have two broken head studs any ideas

Drill down to the bottom of the stud, get length from depth on block ,
fill with penetrating oil and leave for a day then ease out with a stud extractor 

[Olds]

Before spending too much time and effort on the studs, is the rest of the engine ok?

[hunter]

Weld some nuts on,Let them cool turn them out with a spanner.

[merv]

Weld some nuts on,Let them cool turn them out with a spanner.

I could weld a nut on the longer one, but I not sure of the short one there is only a couple of mill left of the stud.

[hunter]

Weld a washer on first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwbb9Oj7VAg

[merv]

Can any one tell me if this would be alright to convert the reliant clutch to hydraulic and as it is so cheap would the master cylinder be ok to link all the brakes together. If not can any one give me recommendations.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331124615144?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Manky Monkey]

Hi Merv.
I converted the clutch on my last trike to hydraulically operated -as opposed to fully hydraulic, using a slave cylinder from a Mini. Mounted on the frame, it pushed the cluch arm from the back, rather than the normal pedal linkage which pulls it from the front. Gives a nice smooth feeling clutch pedal & is just a bit different.

[Manky Monkey]

.

[hornet6]

Thats a neat idea

[merv]

Thanks for the pictures Andy, so what would be a good brake master cylinder to buy to link the back and front brakes together ? and what master cylinder and slave cylinder would I need  to convert clutch to hydraulic operated ?

[merv]

Thanks for the pictures Andy, so what would be a good brake master cylinder to buy to link the back and front brakes together ? and what master cylinder and slave cylinder would I need  to convert clutch to hydraulic operated ?

 

I have just received a small tax rebate and I need to spend it before her indoors do and these are a couple of parts I need, I know there are different bore sizes and that is why I asked the two questions above. Somebody must be able to put me onto the right ones.