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Author Topic: The begining of a dream  (Read 72479 times)
merv
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« Reply #60 on: June 02, 2014, 07:08:47 PM »

Thanks guys for the advice, I have another go tomorrow when I get home from work, I have never known heads like it  Roll Eyes Sad
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
andyrennison
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« Reply #61 on: June 02, 2014, 11:26:18 PM »

Take your time. Plenty of WD40 and give it tome time to penetrate. I would try to persevere working the head up and down the studs a fraction until it loosens. If you do try to remove them try locking 2nuts together on the exposed thread, may help to turn them. To ne honest of the head is corroded to a stud unlikely it will turn, better to work it up and down for a few days and keep adding penetrating oil.
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
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merv
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« Reply #62 on: June 02, 2014, 11:33:57 PM »

Take your time. Plenty of WD40  To ne honest of the head is corroded to a stud unlikely it will turn, better to work it up and down for a few days and keep adding penetrating oil.

Thanks  andyrennison
That is what I have been doing
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
fifer
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« Reply #63 on: June 02, 2014, 11:37:10 PM »

Cry
Refit the exhaust manifold ; it will give you purchase  on that side .
Gently remove a wee bit on the exposed parts of the studs with wet n dry .
Tap the head back down and try PH CRACKIT Shock Freeze Spray on the studs
Next time you prise it up , measure the gap at each of the corners and gently knock the corners till the head is level .
Get a helper and use flat pry bars covered in the plastic from  washing up liquid bottles etc  around them  so that you do not damage the head .
Just lift , if possible , a 1/4 inch at a time then tap the head back down , then repeat .
Actually , I have designed a new tool to supplement the existing flat bar removal tool and the prototype works extremely well .
When I get the time and money I intend to get the Mk2 version made and I will provide details and measurements on my site later in the year .
.
.
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #64 on: June 03, 2014, 09:19:29 AM »

I have designed a new tool to supplement the existing flat bar removal tool

-is it a sledge hammer?
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fifer
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« Reply #65 on: June 03, 2014, 10:49:27 AM »

I have designed a new tool to supplement the existing flat bar removal tool

-is it a sledge hammer?

 Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
.
.
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Confucious ; He say that man who take woman up hill , him not on level
merv
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« Reply #66 on: June 03, 2014, 05:26:37 PM »

Blimey, that head was stubborn
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
merv
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« Reply #67 on: June 03, 2014, 05:27:40 PM »

Glad that's out of the way
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
Olds
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« Reply #68 on: June 03, 2014, 05:44:34 PM »

Just another of those 5 minute jobs  Smiley
Be prepared for a lot more of those during the build. Cheesy

I have designed a new tool to supplement the existing flat bar removal tool
-is it a sledge hammer?
Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
Ah, but is it a sledgehammer covered in plastic from washing up bottles ?
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
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merv
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« Reply #69 on: June 03, 2014, 05:55:00 PM »

Got one more stud out, cant shift the others yet. The job goes from bad to worse. Took the sump off so far so good , went to take what I call the bridges off so I can take out the crank. Three screws came undone, so one bridge off and the other part free ,the last screw chewed up so tried drilling it out. Ended up knackering the bridge
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
merv
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« Reply #70 on: June 03, 2014, 05:59:21 PM »

Just another of those 5 minute jobs  Smiley
Be prepared for a lot more of those during the build. Cheesy

Thanks Olds  Smiley
Would any body have a spare and the screw, also can any body tell me what the thread is so I can get a tap to redo the thread, Thanks
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
merv
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« Reply #71 on: June 03, 2014, 06:39:45 PM »

Just another of those 5 minute jobs  Smiley
Be prepared for a lot more of those during the build. Cheesy

Thanks Olds  Smiley
Would any body have a spare and the screw, also can any body tell me what the thread is so I can get a tap to redo the thread, Thanks


The bridge side I need is the timing chain side, thanks
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
Olds
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« Reply #72 on: June 03, 2014, 06:54:13 PM »

For the front bridge piece try-  http://carwisespares.moonfruit.com/parts-by-area-1/4518247643
Part number 6019. no idea on the size of the screw thread.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
fifer
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« Reply #73 on: June 03, 2014, 06:54:40 PM »

The thread is 5/16 UNC .
Most of the sizes are in the Genuine Reliant workshop manual at

https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintsandtips/parts-workshop-links-for-mk1-robin/workshop-manuals

.
In the Section F  ...... Engine  .... See page 18    section 17
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« Last Edit: June 03, 2014, 06:59:51 PM by fifer » Logged

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Olds
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« Reply #74 on: June 03, 2014, 07:07:10 PM »

Nice one fifer  Cheesy    I'd not seen that section before.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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