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scannerzer
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« Reply #30 on: October 19, 2013, 06:33:59 PM » |
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yep that would be the way to go i was going to do that but forgot at a critical time so it never happened  |
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stumpy
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« Reply #31 on: October 19, 2013, 07:51:04 PM » |
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looks weak with so many holes so close have not started mine yet ... but will be using 38mm tube with a reducer at grip ends down to 7/8ths
and weld a tunnel in to the reducer hence no room for braid for me i will get round to mine soon
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stumpy can't voice his opinion here
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andyrennison
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« Reply #32 on: October 20, 2013, 07:44:32 AM » |
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There is a reducer in these from 1" to 7/8. That inserts in about 2.5" so i have just gone past it
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« Last Edit: October 20, 2013, 07:48:52 AM by andyrennison »
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared
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scannerzer
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« Reply #33 on: October 20, 2013, 08:45:57 AM » |
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are you welding or brazing in your crush tubes Andy?
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andyrennison
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« Reply #34 on: October 20, 2013, 09:27:13 AM » |
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Welding
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared
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scannerzer
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« Reply #35 on: October 20, 2013, 09:28:48 AM » |
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does it really take that much strength away then?
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andyrennison
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« Reply #36 on: October 20, 2013, 09:33:11 AM » |
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I dunno, its near my wrist so i think as long as its a fair bit stronger then any pressure i can apply it should be ok, waiting for opinions
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Thousands of candles can be lit from a single candle,
and the life of the candle will not be shortened.
Happiness never decreases by being shared
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Olds
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« Reply #37 on: October 20, 2013, 09:38:34 AM » |
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Holes near the grip end of the bars are not really a problem (within reason). It's where the cables exit near the headstock that you have to worry about.
It's a matter of leverage ( force x distance )
For the switch wiring, it is usually fairly easy to modify the switch, to have the cables enter the bars actually under the switch. That way you don't see them at all.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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digger06
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« Reply #38 on: October 20, 2013, 10:07:34 AM » |
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shouldnt worry, they used to put large slots in kawasaki bars for the wires and the tube looked thinner than yours,
only time i saw those bend was on a kawi 1100 shafty when he fell off,
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Olds
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« Reply #39 on: October 20, 2013, 12:06:30 PM » |
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Honda did a similar thing. They put the slot under the bars between the clamps on the yoke. I believe they also reinforced that area.
A while ago I tested putting a throttle cable inside some bars as an experiment. Adjuster was threaded into the tube. Worked but couldn't be bothered with the hassle if I wanted to change anything. Now all my cables and wiring run outside the bars.
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« Last Edit: October 20, 2013, 12:11:33 PM by Old Newbie »
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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scannerzer
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« Reply #40 on: October 20, 2013, 03:30:49 PM » |
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was it for an internal type set up inside the twist grip ON ,it looks like it would have been really neat
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Olds
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« Reply #41 on: October 20, 2013, 04:51:33 PM » |
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It was for a reversed lever system similar in action to a vintage brake lever . Fits onto the end of the handlebar with the cable inside the bars. It was just an idea that I was playing with.
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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merv
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« Reply #42 on: October 20, 2013, 07:12:59 PM » |
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Holes near the grip end of the bars are not really a problem (within reason). It's where the cables exit near the headstock that you have to worry about.
It's a matter of leverage ( force x distance )
For the switch wiring, it is usually fairly easy to modify the switch, to have the cables enter the bars actually under the switch. That way you don't see them at all.
Sorry Old's, could you explain this a little bit more, I don't quite get it |
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« Last Edit: October 20, 2013, 07:15:59 PM by merv »
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Why do every five minute job take all day, and
if it can go wrong it will go wrong
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scannerzer
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« Reply #43 on: October 20, 2013, 07:46:41 PM » |
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It was for a reversed lever system similar in action to a vintage brake lever . Fits onto the end of the handlebar with the cable inside the bars. It was just an idea that I was playing with.
that would look the job ON,maybe for one of your future projects |
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Olds
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« Reply #44 on: October 20, 2013, 08:40:15 PM » |
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For the switch wiring, it is usually fairly easy to modify the switch, to have the cables enter the bars actually under the switch. That way you don't see them at all.
Sorry Old's, could you explain this a little bit more, I don't quite get it Most switches seem to have the wiring exit in line with and under the bars, with a clamp plate holding the wires in place, to stop them being pulled out. If you remove this plate and drill a suitable hole in the bars so that the switch housing covers this when fitted there is no visible wiring. Once the wires have been moved out of the way this plate may have to be refitted as it may hold parts of the switch in place On some it's might be easier to separate the wiring of the top and bottom sections of the switch housing and drill two holes one for the top and one for the bottom sections. Remember to leave excess wires in the bars to allow the switches to be partly removed for any future maintenance. Hope that make some sort of sense. |
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Getting older but no wiser! Just using bigger hammers.
The answer to most problems, fire and lots of it.
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