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Author Topic: dobbers trike  (Read 164288 times)
dobber
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« Reply #525 on: June 14, 2013, 09:38:35 PM »

That's tidy. Wish I understood electrickery.
never done much with lecci till i started this , got a bit of advice from t bone then stripped everything to see how it worked n where wires went then did it as i went along.
need the hazard set next, can anyone recomend the simplest of the ones on ebay?Huh
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dobber
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« Reply #526 on: June 17, 2013, 05:22:38 PM »

need a little advice on my build, seems iv forgotten most things.


for the indicators, does it have to be a light for the warning or can i put a buzzer thing on, got one for my cruiser which simply connects to each front indicator and sticks on some where with double sided tape, only a half inch square thing.

to wire the fan up, can it be left on permanently or do i need to have a sensor thing on the radiator, guy who made rad said he will fit it to rad if i get the sensor and the nut it screws into. what do i need n where from. also hows it wire up. got a spare fuse for it if needed.


also need some stainless u bolts for the axle, six of. at the moment it has exhaust type ones that aren't strong enough.what size is It to fit snug around the two inch reliant axle. know its not as simple as saying to fit round a two inch tube.

never thought i would get to this stage but whats the first steps to getting it legally registered.


all advice freely accepted.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2013, 05:24:24 PM by dobber » Logged

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scannerzer
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« Reply #527 on: June 17, 2013, 05:57:55 PM »

the fan would need either the sensor or a manual switch that you could switch it on if needed,sensor would be best. go to you local motor factor and ask if they or you could look through the catalogue of fan switches
and find one that has on/off point's at or near the temp you want your engine to run at ie if your engine is happiest at 85 deg get a fan switch that comes on at 87 and of at say 80 .some fan switches have very big
threads so you might have to gat a boss made the right size to fit

wiring is fused live to the switch wire from switch to fan positive and earth to fan
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dobber
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« Reply #528 on: June 17, 2013, 06:42:32 PM »

cheers scannerzer,
would anyone know what is the temp the reliant 850 needs to run at.
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Olds
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« Reply #529 on: June 17, 2013, 09:06:35 PM »

would anyone know what is the temp the reliant 850 needs to run at.
Should be 82. Depending on  the current draw of the fan and the type of switch, you may need a relay.
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dobber
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« Reply #530 on: June 17, 2013, 09:18:36 PM »

hi old newbie,   its a R6  size radiator [custom made] and r6 fan.. looking for sensor now on ebay.
its quite possible i have the reliant sensor still , will have a look..
 mr manky, finaly got round to wiring the old jap indicators i got off you a long time ago. i have led on rear and normal on the front. they seem to be flashing at a acceptable speed. will i need a led or normal hazard kit.?
« Last Edit: June 17, 2013, 09:36:25 PM by dobber » Logged

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fifer
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« Reply #531 on: June 17, 2013, 11:39:53 PM »

would anyone know what is the temp the reliant 850 needs to run at.
Should be 82. Depending on  the current draw of the fan and the type of switch, you may need a relay.

Personally , I would never fit an 82 degree stat .

The Reliant engine needs an 88 degree thermostat to run at peak efficiency .
The 82 stat will not allow the engine to get up to a good operating temperature and there is much more chance of developing mayo in the rocker cover .
.
One of the biggest causes of overheating on the Reliant lump is a blocked waterway at the rear of the block and previous owners not using antifreeze in the system all year .
The drain plug on the rear of the block at the exhaust side needs to be VERY carefully removed { It can sometimes snap off } and if coolant pours out then the waterway is clear .
More often than not you will need to gently and carefully prod into the opening to release all the hard crud .
The crud is sometimes the casting crap left behind during manufacture .
.

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spanners
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« Reply #532 on: June 17, 2013, 11:52:13 PM »

the fan would need either the sensor or a manual switch that you could switch it on if needed,sensor would be best. go to you local motor factor and ask if they or you could look through the catalogue of fan switches
and find one that has on/off point's at or near the temp you want your engine to run at ie if your engine is happiest at 85 deg get a fan switch that comes on at 87 and of at say 80 .some fan switches have very big
threads so you might have to gat a boss made the right size to fit

wiring is fused live to the switch wire from switch to fan positive and earth to fan
as regards fan switch some bmw,s and volvo,s have a thermostatic switch that screws into an m14 thread ,,its what i,v used on ,EMILY,, i researched the part numbers then ordered mine from euro car parts ,, i think it was about £12 , i,ll see if i can find the details ,,
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Olds
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« Reply #533 on: June 18, 2013, 07:22:10 AM »

Should be 82. Depending on  the current draw of the fan and the type of switch, you may need a relay.

Personally , I would never fit an 82 degree stat .

The Reliant engine needs an 88 degree thermostat to run at peak efficiency .
Embarrassed Sorry, fifer as usual is correct. The 82 degree one is the one I took out. Forgot that 88 is the one I put in Embarrassed Embarrassed Embarrassed Embarrassed
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dobber
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« Reply #534 on: June 19, 2013, 10:50:41 PM »

i ordered a core plug for the back of the engine today, gonna pull it out n stick the jet wash through the waterways. any thing i should take care with or watch out for?.
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andyrennison
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« Reply #535 on: June 19, 2013, 11:14:39 PM »

As you know i rebuilt my lump, including removing and refitting the cylinder liners. There was a lot of gunge between the cylinders and the block and between the cylinders themselves. If you could get an abrasive flexible wire in there and riddle it about i think you could dislodge a lot of crud.
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dobber
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« Reply #536 on: June 20, 2013, 10:03:53 PM »

got one of the coiled things for picking bits up in awkward places, will give it a good rumage round Andy from all the different in n outlets.
got the hazard light set up through the post today, fitted really easy. also got a oil pressure and volt meter in one unit, digital. when turned off the screen is smoked black, when it powers up it does a dance n light show then shows the voltage as numbers for a Minuit then has digital curve for oil pressure with numbers in the middle. bit gimmicky but looks good.
« Last Edit: June 20, 2013, 10:29:20 PM by dobber » Logged

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dobber
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« Reply #537 on: June 20, 2013, 10:08:36 PM »

put it on a bracket above the starter, was easy to wire up.  the oil pressure switch is replaced with a sender type unit. problem was its too bulky and the front engine mount was in the way... cutter and power file sorted it
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dobber
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« Reply #538 on: June 20, 2013, 10:11:10 PM »

dont think it will weaken the mount. new sender fits now
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dobber
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« Reply #539 on: June 20, 2013, 10:17:14 PM »

added the wiring for the hazards and the digital display, looks really cluttered now. at some point when nearer to done i will rewire the whole thing . i will run all the wires to a more discreet point instead off joining them under the tank. trouble is you think your done then remember loads more bits of wiring..
realised today i havnt got a speedo. need advice on that one.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
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