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dobber
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« Reply #390 on: February 16, 2012, 08:39:03 PM » |
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found the xj donor bike gear lever today, think it will make a nice little foot throttle. as said in the other thread, now going with a car type set up and cleaner looking bars [no twist grip or leavers]
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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dobber
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« Reply #391 on: February 18, 2012, 08:39:14 PM » |
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had a hour on the clutch last night with the dual control lever from bd6.
using the bits that came with it, i made the inner bit line up with the clutch arm using a 8mm elbowwhich will take threded bar
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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dobber
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« Reply #392 on: February 18, 2012, 08:42:16 PM » |
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mounting the lever off the removeable footpeg mount [for taking engine out]
cut off the cable eye thing..
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« Last Edit: February 18, 2012, 08:55:54 PM by dobber »
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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dobber
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« Reply #393 on: February 18, 2012, 08:43:57 PM » |
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.made sure it clears everthing first
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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dobber
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« Reply #394 on: February 18, 2012, 08:46:46 PM » |
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once i sussed it welded up the bends and weighed up the pedal length
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« Last Edit: February 18, 2012, 08:54:05 PM by dobber »
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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dobber
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« Reply #395 on: February 18, 2012, 08:53:05 PM » |
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cut down the pedal and welded back together. the clutch works, tested with starter motor putting it in gear but when pushing the pedal which is mounted to the frame which pulls the clutch arm the first bit of movement pulls the engine and box forward 10mm or more before working the clutch. could the pressure plate be buggered judging by the odd wear of the release bearing show in earlier photo compared to new one.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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dobber
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« Reply #396 on: February 18, 2012, 08:58:23 PM » |
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how could it drive with the bearing this bad when it was a car anyhow.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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fifer
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« Reply #397 on: February 18, 2012, 09:58:23 PM » |
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Originally posted by dobber ;
when pushing the pedal which is mounted to the frame which pulls the clutch arm the first bit of movement pulls the engine and box forward 10mm or more
Do you mean that it physically moves the complete engine /gearbox unit   You should be able to push the clutch operating lever with a wee bit of force with the palm of your hand Is it a clutch with all the springs in a circle or the diaphragm one with the fingers ? Look directly 90 degrees onto the side of the box and imagining it is a clock face you are looking at . Imagine that a line drawn from the middle of the gearbox clutch lever arm pivot at the top is 12 o,clock and a straight line to ground is at six o,clock , what position is the clutch lever arm at if it was pulled forward resting against the clutch without your new rod fitted . Have you set the free play at the end of the clutch lever arm to 1/16 inch and fitted the hold off spring to the rear of the clutch lever arm ? Some clutches have different bite points . Some are right at the top of the pedal and some are about halfway down the stroke The borg and beck clutches tend to be very fierce and are often described as being on or off with no leeway in between . . |
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Confucious ; He say that man who take woman up hill , him not on level
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zakboy
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« Reply #398 on: February 19, 2012, 08:55:49 AM » |
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Nice tidy job on the pedal dobber
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Give me the strength to except the things in life i can not change
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RODeo
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« Reply #399 on: February 19, 2012, 02:39:01 PM » |
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Dobber,what are you going to do with the route of the exhaust downpipe?
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« Last Edit: February 19, 2012, 05:26:06 PM by RODeo »
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steve brock
Sr. Member
Karma: 8
Posts: 384
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« Reply #400 on: February 19, 2012, 03:14:45 PM » |
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cut down the pedal and welded back together. the clutch works, tested with starter motor putting it in gear but when pushing the pedal which is mounted to the frame which pulls the clutch arm the first bit of movement pulls the engine and box forward 10mm or more before working the clutch. could the pressure plate be buggered judging by the odd wear of the release bearing show in earlier photo compared to new one.
Fantastic I'm re-doing mine like that... nice |
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Steel wasn't invented to make bloody staples with..
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dobber
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« Reply #401 on: February 19, 2012, 06:43:49 PM » |
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cheers for the comments fellas, for the first time when i was putting the pedal on i though this is never ending but when Dan, [bigdog6] pulled up on his today it got me back on track.
plenty of room to get the exhaust round rodeo, now I'm to remove the rubber mounts and put on solid I'm hoping to get the exhaust in one piece.
yes fifer, when i work the clutch the engine and box move forward on the rubbers but the clutch is working. the arm i would say rests at 5.30 position. got to be the pressure plate?
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
can i have it in 20 Min's?
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fifer
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« Reply #402 on: February 19, 2012, 08:17:25 PM » |
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If they are standard Reliant rubbers { Engine Front & Gearbox back ?? } then you maybe have some of the bad batch of very soft rubbers which were produced and sold before they were re-sourced . Landrover mounts cure that , albeit with a little modification  Might the rod you have made not be applying some outwards or inwards leverage to the clutch actuating arm pivot point at the top causing it to jam slightly thereby pulling the engine forwards Originally posted by dobber ;
the arm i would say rests at 5.30 position. What time is it when the clutch is fully used ? With the rod you have made removed , Have you tried just pushing the bottom of the clutch actuating arm with the ball of your hand to disengage the clutch and see if the engine moves then as well .. If it does not and is free then that would point to the foot mechanism applying some sideways force and momentarily locking the pivot point . . All the above might just be verbal diarrhea and the clutch pressure plate has lost some of it springiness  . . |
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Confucious ; He say that man who take woman up hill , him not on level
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digger06
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« Reply #403 on: February 19, 2012, 08:41:30 PM » |
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shouldnt the rubbers have cups over them to prevent much movement?
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fifer
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« Reply #404 on: February 19, 2012, 09:01:04 PM » |
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The cups were only fitted on the front engine mounts and not on the gearbox . The caps were possibly to stop oil getting onto the bushes as well as clonking the fan against the radiator . The metal covers were the first things I launched in my spaceship to Mars just to get the Martians wondering " What the flark are these for " . . I have ran all my Reliants since the late 1960,s without them and never had an engine move { Other than the hundreds of rubber mounts which sheared the metal from the bonded rubbers } . . |
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Confucious ; He say that man who take woman up hill , him not on level
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