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Author Topic: dobbers trike  (Read 164286 times)
hunter
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« Reply #165 on: October 06, 2011, 09:23:46 PM »

Are you sure i thought it was after xmas.
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I
nabsim
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« Reply #166 on: October 08, 2011, 01:34:44 PM »

Bunch of soddin comedians Smiley
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spanners
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« Reply #167 on: October 08, 2011, 07:23:23 PM »

should be in the events or calender some where  Huh Huh Roll Eyes
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dobber
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« Reply #168 on: October 11, 2011, 05:01:27 PM »

finally back on the trike after hectic summer, got somemore frame steel and had a practice making the slugs to lengthen the back. surprisingly easy to squash up and get to fit.
how long does the slug need to be and is it better to leave a gap in the outer tube so weld gets to all surfaces.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
Manky Monkey
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« Reply #169 on: October 11, 2011, 06:20:41 PM »

ERW tube's quite nice to work with isn't it. Can be cut & shaped quite easily & welds well too, yet makes a good strong frame when it's properly braced & triangulated.
I usually make the slugs around 6 inches long, (3 inches either side of the joint). The longer they are, the better your chances of aligning the 2 tubes, but I'm sure there must be a point beyond which making them longer doesn't make the joint any stronger. Personally, I'd say 3 inches either side of the joint is enough. I cut a length of the same tube the frame's made from, slice it down it's length & take out enough to pinch it up in a vice until it's a good, tap in with a mallet, type fit. I drill both sections of the frame, tap the slug into one & weld through the hole into the slug, (remember to file the paint off all surfaces for good weld penetration). With the slug fixed in place, you can then tap it into the second tube. I leave a gap of 3 or 4 mm between the toobs. Weld the other end of the slug through the other hole, then you can run a weld around the joint. Seemples!
« Last Edit: October 11, 2011, 06:36:13 PM by Manky Monkey » Logged

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dobber
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« Reply #170 on: October 11, 2011, 06:27:07 PM »

that's how i did it with the same size tube. cut a bit at a time out till got it squashed to right size to bang in tight. gonna do as Pete said and cut the others back to cross piece so  a joint less.. have a late one on it tonight me thinks...
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
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Manky Monkey
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« Reply #171 on: October 11, 2011, 06:38:36 PM »

Have fun! Someone posted an equation here ages ago, to work out how much you need to cut out to reduce the tube size to fit -but I just do it by eye.
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Cabman77
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« Reply #172 on: October 12, 2011, 08:31:45 AM »

going by steelwork standards any joint, such as here, would need an "optimum" of 100mm (4" in old money) either side of the joint. When they say optimum it really means minimum., and you`re right Andy any more than that is a waste of materials coz it won`t make the joint any stronger. I wouldn`t leave a gap at all, just grind the ends to a full chamfer then they touch right at the inner part of the tube and you`ll get full penetration (ooer missus!!!) and a full strength joint.
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dobber
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« Reply #173 on: October 12, 2011, 09:10:53 AM »

cut off the two inside bits and fettled them smooth, cut two five inch slugs cos only have a five inch wide vice to crush them together.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
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dobber
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« Reply #174 on: October 12, 2011, 09:14:17 AM »

drilled it with a ten mm bit for the rossett weld [ten mm big enough?],
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
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dobber
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« Reply #175 on: October 12, 2011, 09:19:47 AM »

seems straight enough, hope i have left enough length to put it in the bender so they can cross the axle straight so easier to mount. think going to end up putting stainless u bolts on still similar to zakboys system.
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no rush fella, take all the time you need,
        can i have it in 20 Min's?
dobber
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« Reply #176 on: October 12, 2011, 09:26:24 AM »

got more space for a battery container now, thinking of putting a cross piece in where the joints are then can put small gussets in. be a belt and braces job then. got lots of steel spare [[lend my forklift to steel worker guy across the road, free steel in return, all happy]].
« Last Edit: October 12, 2011, 10:18:58 AM by dobber » Logged

no rush fella, take all the time you need,
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« Reply #177 on: October 12, 2011, 10:02:19 AM »

Free steel? That's a result!
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Cabman77
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« Reply #178 on: October 12, 2011, 10:14:48 AM »

Free steel? That's a result!


It`s almost a steal....................................................getting coat now........................ Grin Grin Grin Grin
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zakboy
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« Reply #179 on: October 12, 2011, 11:32:21 AM »

seems straight enough, hope i have left enough length to put it in the bender so they can cross the axle straight so easier to mount. think going to end up putting stainless u bolts on still similar to zakboys system.
nice job dobber
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